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It’s just more precise work to do it right. Idiot working upstairs at my parent’s house untwisted 3" before terminating jacks. And that’s why those jacks only get 100Mbs. I’m going to have to re-terminate all of them, and have been saying that for nearly 30 years now! Thank God they didn’t terminate all the jacks so I’ve got a shot at doing those right. The ones that were terminated correctly will iperf 700-900Mbs, so that’s pretty good considering there was no gigabit standard when the wire was installed and was the only 400Mhz rated wire on the market that cost us 2x as much, but was a great investment. If 2.5Gb/5Gb runs over it, that will be pretty awesome. We put 2x ethernet and 2x coax in each room and still have areas that were underserved. 2x of each on each wall and ceiling is the only way to go.

You mean Jose or Jesus…I haven’t seen a white dude at a residential construction site in almost a decade now (sad to say)…

Most electricians still do not know how to terminate in 2023–and this is after seeing what type of garbage work they did in 1995 at my parent’s home–NOTHING has changed in nearly 30 years. I would have them run the wiring and do my own termination. Use the money saved on termination to double up on wires in case one is damaged when being run.

Pretty interesting and covers a lot of things I’ve never thought of before–thank you for posting!

lol! I was going to say still run it to bathrooms for APs and smart things that are appearing in the bathroom (mirrors, bt speakers, etc).

I would pass on the smurf tube–that stuff sucks unless you have an existing pull line.

smurf tube is useless ime–use 2" pvc or nothing at all.

This, plus do 2x coax drops per location. Basically as many coax as your have ethernet. The uses of that wire keep expanding. Some pre-terminated fibre would be nice too as it’s pretty cheap these days.

Easiest or best? Best–install keystones and a proper jack. Easiest–put an outlet cover over it and screw it into the sheetrock (I’ve seen this done for holes in walls too)

One way to help you think about vlan segmentation is to think about how it would look if they were actual physically separate networks (which is essentially what a vlan is–a virtual lan). If it doesn’t make sense when you think of it this way, it won’t make sense as a vlan.

And also keep in mind that IP segmentation is possible on the same lan, which keeps things on different networks while on the same physical lan. This can work in effect like vlans as well.

In general, I disable ipv6 so it only grabs ipv4. I would try that. They may have enabled something that will not issue an ipv4 if an ipv6 is issued.

Generally, no. You’ll create a packet storm and the switch will disable a port or your network will crash from all the repeated traffic.

LAGG is possible with some to increase bandwidth, but not more than what the isp provides.

Possibly, but more than likely not. Easy test would be to connect two systems and run simultaneous speed tests on both. If each one maxes out, then yes, you can get more bandwidth this way.

I’ve never even heard the term ‘router bridge’ before. A wifi extender is terrible because (generally) it halves the amount of bandwidth available aka the speed.

The only thing ‘mesh’ systems do that outside of a properly designed network will not happen is that a device will seamlessly hop from AP to AP. This is critical in most business/enterprise environments, but in a home you can just name the different APs different names and manually choose the right one because otherwise you’re generally paying 2x to 4x as much for the convenience of it automatically hopping around as well as for the limitations that most mesh systems have in relation to normal router/ap features due to their target market to be basically consumers that want to throw money at a problem vs correct the problem (aka give me a pill to fix it because I won’t exercise).

The reason why some stuff drops and other stuff is fine is due to antenna differences in the devices–good antennas, good signal, not so great antennas, not so great signal. It’s not a problem on the router side wifi as people commonly think.

Mesh is just an expensive way to solve this problem. If you want the cheaper way (which just happens to be more professional), you simply need another access point or two wired back to your main one. This can even be an old router that you are no longer using because you ‘upgraded’. And by ‘wired’ that can mean using a long ethernet cable, powerline adapters that run ethernet over your power outlets, or moca adapters that run ethernet over coaxial cable–whichever works best for your situation, although a real ethernet cable is preferred since it is the best form of ‘wired’.

If you are using wifi for security cameras, I would highly, highly, highly suggest hard wiring those as wifi jammers do exist that render these cameras useless and professional thieves do have these even though they are illegal. This would also give you wired connections where you can put access points that will wire back to your main router. See the linked diagram to see an example: https://i.stack.imgur.com/NjZ5e.png

I would test that extender in the same room of the router first and see if it works there before moving it further. If it doesn’t work in the same room, your new house wiring may not work with powerlines. :(

You can always implement your own network–you don’t need Internet access for that. Most labs have limited connections to the Internet, especially when learning stuff like vlans, etc.

As far as how your apartment Internet would be different than your own isp, well, it’s all down to the IP address. If you get a public IP address (or more than one), you’ll be able to do everything you could with your isp. And in general, I’ve not seen an apartment that doesn’t do this.

If it is a ‘private’ IP subnet (192.168.x.x, 10.x.x.x, 172.16…), then your Internet incoming traffic will more than likely be behind a NAT so you won’t be able to have a server sitting behind this without some workarounds. But your regular Internet traffic like browsing, etc will work fine.

Hope this helps and feel free to ask questions as I dealt with this in one of our previous apartment complexes.

Yes it is. Did in our apartment a few years in a brand new build that had this same crap while all the jacks were properly terminated for ethernet. I would check your jack terminations since they might have all 4 pairs and be tia a or b and be okay. If the wires are out of order that doesn’t matter is you do the same thing on the patch panel side as the signal doesn’t know what color the wire is–will just seem off to someone who only goes ‘by the book’.

You can replace those panels with ones designed for ethernet and re-sell the old ones as AMP is a very reputable company. Then you will need a switch there for all the ports to be usable.

I think the cabling should be good for not only gigabit ethernet, but maybe even 2.5Gb as my parents 1990s house has some of this same stuff and it’s fine for gigabit if terminated properly and not untwisted too much.

Glad to hear this is sorted. I heard our next door neighbor had to have att come out 3 times to get their fibre right. This is one of the main reasons I haven’t signed on yet.

This why I never put accounts on autopay–fighting to get money back is a big fight.