• 4 Posts
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Joined 3 years ago
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Cake day: 17 June 2023

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  • Tire size has little to do with actual clearance. You should really go check the stats some time. Comparing the 2000 to the 2025, the 2025 gains ~1" of ground clearance and less than 1" of tire diameter. 701mm vs 724mm. You’re seeing bigger rims, not bigger tires. So the 2025 pits the body just 1/2" higher from the axle than the 2000.

    You’re comparing a new vehicle’s modern features and design elements, features and elements found across the Toyota and national market, and thinking the new vehicle is simply better than the old one.

    Yes, I literally said the old ones were essentially lifted corollas. The part you skimmed over was that the current RAV is now closer to the Camry, including bumping up to the Camry platform.

    This entire thread is about the bloat of vehicles. You have touched upo so many unrelated tangents. They bloated an economy trucklet into a an offroad cosplayer to skirt government regulations. That is the whole point. The 8.1" minimum ground clearance and steep approach/departure angles and AWD get it to class as an offroad vehicle while increasing risk of pedestrian death due to blunt frontal shape.

    Nobody said the new RAV is a bad car.

    There is a whole planet of cars outside your dealership.


  • They don’t want the secondhand market. There’s no tangible profit there. They don’t want you to buy games. There’s tangible profit there only once. They want you to subscribe. They want recurring payments whether you use it or not. They want you to feel obliged to play certain games because you’re already automatically sending the money. They do not give a shit if you finish a title. Eyes on the screen in their ecosystem is all they want. It doesn’t matter if it’s the console manufacturer or the game developer. GTA(#) has been hyped for decades, they don’t need a physical GTAV to float around to convince a handful of people to buy GTAVI. GTA is not in the same market as FF


  • There’s thousands of Rav4 owners that love their older vehicles to death. The 3 “tire on the back” generations. Your single bad vehicle is anecdotal. Trade in? One of the most resellable vehicles in the market? I bet you the prior owner knew it was bad.

    The current Rav4 is bloated. It started as a lifted Corolla with a taller roof and 4WD. Its been bloating rapidly for 10 years and is now closer to the Camry, going so far as to jump platforms. It’s now within 1" of the height and length of a 94 Explorer while being 3" wider. Just because it’s smaller than a current Explorer doesn’t mean it’s not bloated. You have a comfortable commuter car that Toyota reports is an offroad truck.


  • The roofers may be able to do the vents for a small up charge. I wanted the gutter people to do mine but the gutter price alone was well beyond what my inexperienced DIY ass wanted to pay. I’d recommend adding a ridge vent with the roof though, as that’s a very related task.

    When I did one corner of the house with soffit vents, I couldn’t feel anything in the attic, but I could see cobwebs dancing in the draft above the vents. Nothing in the other corners. So I have to trust they work. I started on the side with the most frequent breeze



  • I’ve been working on venting my attic. It’s a 1950s build with gable vents and a temperature-controlled fan. That made sense in the pre-ac days to push 130F attic air out, pull 80F house air through a popped attic door, and pull 90F air into the house (or 70+F night air in), I guess, but with retrofitted ac, it’s not appropriate.

    Nowadays, you want the attic to breathe and hopefully stay ambient. Luckily, the house came with a recent addition of a ridge vent. Unluckily, there’s no soffit vents, so the air is still pretty stagnant. I don’t use the fan because it’s mostly pulling air from the gable vents near the ridge and pulling some from small gaps in the living space ceiling. If you pull from the living space, as others noted with your crawl space, the air must be replaced with outside air, so you have to determine if that’s a benefit or a negative. I’m working on adding soffit vents to allow convection currents to flow and give the fan much more outside air availability (along with sealing ceiling openings). While my rafters sit over the wall top plates and provide a 5" gap between them to the soffit eaves , the last installation of batt insulation was rolled up and taped into the rafter bays - just like yours. That’s an annoying thing to undo every 16" in hot, dusty, mildewy, rodent-contaminated conditions. I’ve compromised by cutting the soffit vent openings and poking the insulation with a rod from outside the house. I’ve wedged some foam rafter baffles in the bays to make sure they stay open, even though they’re really meant for blown-in insulation rather than batts. I’ve used the 16" rectangular individual soffit vents so far, but I’m starting to think I can tackle replacing the soffit panels with vented panels myself while tackling some rotting trim at the same time.

    I live where it snows in winter and while this will make the attic cooler, it’s supposedly still a benefit to help reduce humidity and circulate air to reduce mustiness. What I know for sure is my gas heat can keep up, my electric ac cannot.

    My version of your powered vent is, with a full/sealed basement, I’ve propped the door with a fan to blow basement air into the living space and hopefully exchange air downwards. That’s a relatively close loop, if it worked at all, by exchanging air between two air groups already in near contact via the floor. Agreeing with others, I don’t think it should be used for the attic air. But your setup could be a good start to test the effectiveness of the fan and to be a step towards a better solution.

    Good luck. Stay cool. Building standards have changed a lot in the last 100 years. I can’t wait to find out what common practice today gets ridiculed in 50 years. My bet is on spray-in wall insulation.


  • I get it. I can’t say I’ve ever mashed the gas, but I’ve had some interesting mixups over the years and vehicles. Usually it’s harmless like hopping in an automatic and stomping the nonexistent clutch to start the engine or panic brake. But, that being said, as I keep seeing my rental vehicles getting more and more complicated and overbearing, I genuinely appreciate have 2 pedals to, more or less, stop the vehicle. Just throw two feet at the problem and at the very least, you won’t accelerate to 73mph in a residential. Plus my bench seat pickup has a foot-operated parking brake, meaning 3 out of 4 pedals available will slow the vehicle. (that 4-pedal truck gives good laughs to my niece who competently uses one-pedal regen mode in an EV)

    Not trying to be a manual elitist. I had automatics exclusively for the first 10 years and the brake pedal worked just fine. I’ve experienced events where I was shifted din my seat and my physical register to the floor was misaligned, causing inaccurate pedal action. Usually just kissing the brake when meaning to mash the gas. I’m probably just mildly venting, having just come back from a trip involving a 2026 rental with suicidal lane-keep, shadow-sensitive auto brake, multi-tap touchscreen hvac, and the physical volume knob (good) on the passenger side (bad). First day back today and had a lovely drive with my 25 year old base model utility vehicle.

    I don’t know. I’m sure there’s a net benefit to saving lives but at the cost of increased incidents and reduced driver skill. I think adaptive cruise/guided steering is a little too far (and “full” self driving way too far for the current tech). My father thought ABS and basic cruise was too numbing. His father thought automatics were too disconnected. His father probably disliked foot controls or electric starters or something. And his father probably thought the loss of knowledge of horse maintenance was over the line. [shakes fist at clouds]



  • After almost getting hit twice by a driven Tesla while walking in a lot, the guy parked it in a handicap spot with no placard and speed walked into the store. Upon exit from a different door, the driver had it drive itself to him. I’m miffed i missed my chance to fuck with it because I didn’t know what was going on. I was waiting, debating calling police for the placard issue (given there were multiple open spaces nearby). I decided to not get involved and drove in front of the tesla to exit. Weird, I noted, seeing the drl bar and left blinker on. Turns out, it was waiting it’s turn to leave autonomously.

    Fuck that guy. DoorDash vibe. 150ft walk.








  • Half my internet (vehicle enthusiasts) hates EVs because they’re part of the liberal agenda. Half my internet (political progressives) hates Tesla because it represents the fascist agenda. And then the other 99% of my country’s citizens don’t give enough shits about the topics to post online about it. My liberal area is full of brand new Teslas.

    You’re seeing people complain. You’re not acknowledging all the other internet traffic you’re seeing talking about anything besides Ai. And here, there’s a higher anti-ai sentiment than other parts of the internet. Consider that a huge part of it has to do with the bullshit marketing terminology applied to chatbots and other pre-existing machine-learning suites that suddenly have a fresh coat of conversationalism that presents itself as authoritative.



  • No doubt, there’s a huge population decline. I didn’t mean to detract from that. However, the primary splatometer for drivers is the windshield, not the license plate. The test put the splatometer on the license plate, which is a very reasonable place when employing the public as volunteer testers. So yes, older vehicles’ license plates may catch slightly more bugs, but there’s still a major difference in windscreen shape and upper aerodynamics.

    If you look at, say, 2018+ vehicles, I’d say basically every reasonable passenger vehicle will have a subtle lower air splitter, a sharp protrusion at the lower edge of the bumper. This is meant to slice the air relatively cleanly to prevent bumper-level air from going under the car, instead going around and over. However, around 2018, upper splitters began appearing at the top of the bumper as well, in the form of sharp hood rims or grille features. The intent is to prevent air from going over, hitting the windscreen, and adding to the volume over the roof and upper wake, instead sending it to the sides where it finds a car’s length of smooth side paneling. The 2018 Accord and 2016 Civic comes to mind, both a redesign that slanted the chrome grille bar above the logo forward. I’m not saying that every vehicle in the 2019 study was a 2018+ Accord and 2016+ Civic, just an example of ever-changing aerodynamic practices. One (or two) splitters will make the air more forceful on the bumper while greatly smoothing the total vehicle’s airflow. Dial it back to 90s Fords, and the lower bumper was often rounded under the car in their bubble era. That works for airplane design, but is a negative feature on a grounded vehicle.

    Unfortunately, there’s no easy way to get a true splatometer measurement. You’d need, say, a license plate on stilts, vaulted 5ft in front of the vehicle to be outside the vehicle’s aerodynamic influence. I suppose a net would also work and we don’t actually need splats to count.