If I was in the wedding party, I’d wear my Tag Heuer. Anything else and I’ll switch to the leather link band most of the time.

how many iOS versions can I update on my phone till I can not connect the 2 devices?

Theoretically, forever. Each watchOS version requires a minimum iOS version (e.g., watchOS 10 requires iOS 17 as a minimum), but it doesn’t work that way in the reverse - iOS 17 should be able to pair with any watch going back to the original Apple Watch, as will iOS 18.

That said - people do occasionally have issues when pairing doesn’t happen. But it is supposed to work that way. Currently I use an Ultra but I have my backup Series 5 still on watchOS 9 but it remains paired with my 13 Pro running iOS 17.1.1 (I had to unpair both watches when I did a factory reset and restore of my phone last month and re-paired both watches just fine).

Anytime I have used a screen protector that had a lubricant spray (basically it is just water with a very small amount of soap/detergent) that was used to help place it correctly without bubbles I ALWAY sprayed on the screen protector (and my hand, to prevent sticking to my hand), NEVER NEVER NEVER on the device.

This person who did this should not do it that way.

You probably can’t complete your challenge anymore. If you have, say, a challenge that says “Get 75 exercise minutes for 14 days this month”, and you have done do only 6 times so far this month, and it is the 24th, then you don’t have enough days left to complete the challenge and the challenge disappears from your watch and fitness app.

You can adjust the sensitivity of AutoSleep if you don’t feel it’s reporting sleep data right. Tap the Settings icon in the dock at the bottom (on the iPhone app) and then tap “Sleep/Wake calibration”. It shows you how the sleep time would change with each of 10 different settings.

The stock sleep app says that I am asleep when I know that I am awake; AutoSleep seems to do a better job for me. There are times when it says that I was awake when I am pretty sure that I was not, but those times are pretty rare. I’ve been using the app for 6.5 years.

Fitness app, tap the workout, tap “show more” next to “Heart Rate” (or tap the graph itself.)

Ive been looking everywhere

Obviously not on this subreddit, because it has many posts just like this.

I suggest opening the Tips app and watch “What’s New in WatchOS 10”.

I also hate that my rings are no longer in one screen and I have to scroll three screens for all the information. Any way to change this?

No. (Though you can look at the info in the Fitness app or the Health app on the iPhone.)

Yes. I spent three years with the Series 2 constantly frustrated during running workouts when I would glance at the watch and see nothing - my “wrist raise” apparently wasn’t strong enough. Sometimes even exaggerated wrist raise didn’t work and I’d have to tap the display. I’ve had AOD since getting the Series 5. It’s a must-have feature for me.

I never start a workout but it always gives me almost every minute as green ring.

I think if Apple could offer heart attack as a warning to the watch, they would have done so long ago. I know that they warn you that Apple Watch cannot detect heart attack on two different screens when you start an ECG on a supported watch. Clearly Apple hasn’t been able to reliably detect heart attacks as an event with the watch.

Try switching to another watch face and then switch back. If that doesn’t help, try power off/power on. Sounds like a glitch/bug.

No, unfortunately you cannot customize notification sounds on the watch.

You can change the colors, the style of the time, whether it has seconds or not, whether it has ticks on the outside for seconds, elevation, or depth, and any of the complication slots. That is all you can modify.

It’s easily my favorite face these days. I think that it’s better than the old modular face.

Health app. Tap “Browse”, tap “Activity”, tap “Workouts”, tap “Add Data” top-right. You can enter in the details (basically just changed it Functional Strength Training, enter the times, enter the calories you think you burned.

Not sure if it will sync to the other apps, though.

I went from X to 13 Pro. I plan to get a 15 Pro in the spring.

I checked and found that I used the telephoto lens enough that I’d likely miss it with a non-pro phone. It’s as simple as that for me. I honestly don’t notice much difference with pro motion myself - if I could set it to 60 Hz always if it saved battery I’d be just fine.

One thing that bugs me about the 13 Pro vs the plain 13 is the weight in my pocket. So knowing that the 15 Pro will be better will be a big plus for me.

I suppose that we’ll know for sure if they do their next one on iPhone in daytime settings.

“Or later” means that I should be able to use my Apple Watch on WatchOS 9 and simply not upgrade to WatchOS 10 even with the new iPhone. But I am not 100% sure if this is the case.

This is 100% correct. I have a 13 Pro on iOS 17, not a 15 Pro, but the phone doesn’t matter. I have two Apple Watches - an Ultra on watchOS 10, and a Series 5, that I have deliberately kept on watchOS 9. The Series 5 works perfectly fine with iOS 17.

The way it works is this: each watch has a minumum iOS version it will work with - the iOS version that corresponds to the watchOS version that shipped with the watch. So, the Series 8, which shipped with watchOS 9, will work with any phone running iOS 16 or later. The Series 9 will work with any phone running iOS 17 or later.

Also, each watchOS version has a minimum iOS version it will work with. watchOS 9 requires iOS 16 or later - so it will work perfectly fine with a phone running iOS 17, but you wouldn’t be able to pair with a phone running iOS 15.

So, your Series 4, if you never updated it, would work with any phone running iOS 13 or later. But, if you updated it to watchOS 9, that means it will work with any phone running iOS 16 or later, which means that it will work with a phone running iOS 17, even if watchOS has not been updated.

(I have kept the Series 5 on watchOS 9 because I also always keep my last phone as a backup, and my last phone is an iPhone X, which is stuck on iOS 16. If for some reason my 13 Pro fails, is lost, etc., while I am waiting for a replacement I will use the iPhone X as my main phone and pair the Series 5 to it. I won’t be able to pair the Ultra, because I’ve already updated it to watchOS 10.)

It’s 60 minutes to go from 0 to 80%; after 80% the fast charge stops and it goes back to normal charging. I’ve never timed it myself, but my watch just went from about 60% to 96% in 30 minutes, so three hours to get that charge sounds too long.

If you want to try an arm band heart rate monitor, Scosche makes one.

As others have said, anything that does Bluetooth can be paired with the watch and used by the stock (or third party) workout app.

It pauses because the watch starts recording heart rate almost constantly while you are in a workout, while it takes reading once every 4-5 minutes most of the time normally. It doesn’t use heart rate as a clue that you may have started a workout - it uses arm motion, and (probably) checks location services to see if you are moving in a way that suggests that you may be walking. But once you start the workout and it tries to read heart rate constantly and it thinks that you don’t have a heart rate, it pauses (probably assuming that you maybe you took the watch off of your wrist after forgetting to pause or end the workout.)

That’s just the way it works. I know you think it should work otherwise… but it doesn’t. Apple isn’t likely to change it unless enough people suggest the change, so use the Feedback form to make a suggestion.

Have you tried using the watch on your other wrist?

That’s strange - whenever I use the crown to change to a different page on my workouts, it stays on that page until I spin the crown (or swipe down). I have to say that I don’t do outdoor cycling workouts, so perhaps cycling is different for some reason, but it always stay where I put it when I do running or walking workouts.

But if you press the edit icon top-right in “Outdoor Cycle Workout”, scroll down to and tap “Preferences”, tap “Outdoor Cycle Workout Views” at the top, scroll down to the bottom and tap “Reorder” and put the HR Zone page at the top, does that fox it?