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1 year agoI think what you are really asking is “how can I find out what other Internet providers offer service at my location”
And the answer is to go to this site and enter your address:
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Using a switch will not make it slower. However, if the limits they impose are “per room” (or “per wall port”) then all the devices together will have to share that total speed.
If, however, you are very lucky and they impose the limit “per unique device” then each of the devices you connect to the switch will have its own allocation.
On amazon even normal switches have that term “splitter” in the description.
Even the TP-link switch that /u/1sh0t1b33r posted.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A128S24
TP-Link TL-SG105, 5 Port Gigabit Unmanaged Ethernet Switch, Network Hub, Ethernet Splitter, Plug & Play, Fanless Metal Design
They include it because its a term many naive users search for.
That cable most likely does not meet specs for Ethernet.
That said, you could try to use it, and it might work (or it might not)
Use whichever pairs you like, but be sure you use the same set at each end of the connection, and that each pair corresponds with where an Ethernet pair should be.
This page has an image that shows which pairs go together:
https://doitforme.solutions/blog/ethernet-wiring-t568a-versus-t568b/
It would work, but one with DOCSIS 3.1 would definitely be better, especially if you have or might plan to upgrade to a higher speed plan from your ISP.
Your “Fritzbox 6660 Cable” is a COMBO modem and router.
“some kind of converter” is called a standalone cablemodem - something like this:
https://www.surfboard.com/products/cable-modems/sb8200/
Note that when you change the device connected to the cable (modem), you will have to contact your ISP and give them the MAC address of the new modem to register in their network so that it is allowed to connect. Some ISP’s may have a website where you can log in and do this, others you may have to just call.
want to cut power to the router at night
Why?
The different SSID isn’t the issue.
THe issue is that you have a second router which isolates the home network from the one at your shop.
What you want is to use an access point in the shop, rather than a router. And make sure the point-to-point link is in “bridging” mode.
edit: also wifi cameras suck. You should seriously consider wired ones.
If only there were some way of instantly electronically accessing it over a large data communication network.
Also good lord that thing is ridiculous. But then again most routers that use the term “gaming router” are.
I wouldn’t buy any of those. Nor would I buy a router or any sort of networking device from Best Buy.
If a particular router looks more like an insect or an alien spaceship, instead of a simple rectangular enclosure, it is likely overpriced and overhyped.
In fact, you’ll get more for your money if you use wired-only router, and a separate wifi AP - similar to the benefit of using a separate modem from your router rather than a modem/router combo - you can choose devices that are best at their own job, rather than trying to either compromise or overspending.
Here is an article describing some good gigabit wired routers:
Depends on what you can mount it to.
There exist various kinds of cable clips and mounting devices. Some that use adhesive, some that use screws, staples, or nails.
Sure, stop using wifi for tasks like that.
Use a hardwired Ethernet instead.
It will make no difference. You don’t even need shielded cable for residential, in most cases.
Run an Ethernet cable along the walls between the router and your PC.
Either along the floor, or along the ceiling.
Here is a 20 meter one for under 10€
Either of those would work fine.
Keep in mine that your wired devices need to connect to to your router as well - the router isn’t just for wifi, in fact wifi is a *secondary* function of a router.
Did you give the ISP the DOCSIS MAC address of the modem?
If not, it will never work, they have to register it on their network before it will be allowed to connect.
One, I would generally not recommend a modem/router combo at all, but instead separate devices.
Two, you only want a cable modem if you are subscribed (or are going to subscribe) to a cable ISP service. A cable modem would be absolutely useless for a fiber or VDSL service. (And if its a DOCSIS compliant modem, it should work with any DOCSIS compliant cable ISP)
So the first step before deciding what (or if) device you want to obtain, is to at least be certain what ISP/service you’re going to subscribe to.
And often, unless you have very specific needs and know exactly what you’re doing in advance, you’re usually better of starting by using whatever device the ISP you subscribe to provides, and THEN consider whether you need something different or additional. And if you’re seeking advice on reddit at that time, you should be sure to give the exact brand and model of the ISP provided device.
All that said, if I was going to buy a cable modem either to replace an ISP device or for a new service, I would probably get something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB8200-RB-Approved-Spectrum/dp/B07M8BNVSD/
And I would continue to use my existing wired router and separate wifi AP. I can see it probably making more sense for most end users to get a router with a wifi AP built in (aka “wireless router” to connect to their modem, and then connect both their wired and wireless devices through it.
I would do this.
Connect your PC directly to that wall port, and reboot it. If it then has Internet connectivity, check what IP address it is assigned (How you do that depends on what operating system you’re using - google it)
Once you’ve got its IP address, you want to see if it is a public/routable IP address, or a private/nonroutable one.
If its a public one, then you almost certainly only get ONE IP address from the connection, and cannot connect multiple devices without a home router (which do NAT to allow the one IP to be shared)
If it is a private one then you have some other issue. Note that once you install a router, then devices connected to its LAN will have private IP addresses, rather than the public one that will now be assigned to the router’s WAN interface.
Private nonroutable IP addresses include any that start with:
192.168.*10.*172.16.* through 172.31.*as well as
100.64.* through 100.127.*
It would only work if the ISP router also supports aggregation in a way compatible with the switch (and you have access to configure the ports for it)
However, the point of greater-than-gigabit service is primarily to allow multiple devices to share the high speed. There are very few common situations where one individual device is going to be able to use that much at once.
There are far too many variables to tell online.
Find someone that can come and take a look at your specific home and seek their advice.