Put it back together, and just measure it that way. No math involved so shouldn’t be that hard.

Else you can see where he usually sets the size to, measure the length. And then just convert from an circumference to diamater or radius, whatever you are looking fkr

Does he already have a watch? Does he ever take it off? Check the size that it’s set at when he uses it

Good for you? Or good for the market?

Eat you ramen while driving in your RAM waiting for Ramadan

The “gateway” is 69. Noted

Corporate fines should be in % of the company income.

I would also argue that personal fines should be like that too.

I think this is indeed where the confusion has maybe stemmed from?

An device can just ask for USB 1 transfer speeds over the CC pins of an USB C cable, or data pins on USB2 cable (I don’t know why you would, but it can). Usb is fully backwards comparable.

Limiting the conductors to (I think 2 in the photo), you won’t have the CC wires (or even data wires in this case) and thus are limited to the default speed of that wire combination.

There is also nothing wrong with limiting the charging speed (this would also result in a less warm and thus more happy battery). But the question is if the charging speed is enough for your use case.

Our battery pack packs run at 16W max charging rate, which is enough to keep streaming. But the battery level won’t go up on standalone. Thus is a sacrifice we are willing to make to avoid buying a new powerbank stack

I think you got some things mixed up maybe? There is a resistor in an USB C to USB C cables but, this tells the power supply the max rating of the cable so it can respect this. This has nothing to do if both device and adapter actually agree on a higher voltage to change to.

Also my point was that most magnet connectors only carry 2, maybe 4 connections. Which is enough for power only (2) or USB 2 data (4-5 wires), but not enough for Power Delivery.

It can and will still charge, just at a slower speed.

Yhea it depends on what game, Factorio runs below 15W for me, and would work. But some games drain the battery a bit more on the Deck. You can also set a power limit, but this is quite sickening on the Frame.

If you look at you decks light when charging, you can see that is yellow (slow charging) instead of white

You require to have the CC pins (CC1 for left and CC2 for right) to be able to use power delivery, these are the data pins that the device and adapter communicate on for highering the supplied voltage (and using power delivery).

I do not know what magic you use to get PD working on an USB 2 cable. So please share

I’ve attached a photo of the pins of an somewhat higher end magnetic cable, showing these pins are not available on an magnetic USB C cable

Note that the magnet connector limits you to USB 2.0, because it does not have enough pins. This limit the charging speed at total maximum 15W* (5V 3A). This is enough to keep you streaming (around 11W usage), but not enough for standalone (19W usage or so)

*Not all chargers can go there, your usage may vary, and it might be lower

Congratulations on being able to do this? I can’t image how this would be possible without him noticing

Steam is to convenient. I’ve stopped with trying to get games for cheap anywhere else. Because it’s too simple to have them inside our steam library. Updates and Saves files are synced too with steam.

As long as they do what they have been doing, this deal will just go on. And they know it.

Let’s hope the plans after Gabe’s passing (if he is indeed a mortal human) is the same.

Asuming you ment 3 wires. if the last wire is white, cut the last wire. Otherwise, if there is more than one blue wire, cut the last blue wire. Otherwise, cut the last wire.

Haven’t had one in 4 years. I don’t email to outside. If I would get one I would mark it as such, but I’m not popular enough.

I’ve set my last name in caps. So any IT Phishing script using a <placeholder lastname> just sends my name in caps. And then I just set up a filter.

They should really try and make them more believable

Look for something with OpenTherm connection. You can use you own local ESPhome thermostat with any of them

An example of ours https://github.com/jellewie/esphome-opentherm-thermostat

There are special wok induction plates (more like bowls at that point), and those work quite well. But I cant see spending so much money on the matter. That’s why for a wok I prefer fire above anything electric.

You can also (we don’t have gas, and didn’t want to spend money on a round induction bowl) buy a wok with a tick and flat bottum. (also suggestions where listed here somewhere)

I didn’t say you can backpack with it. I also agree with you that cooking on fire (let it be wood, or a gas fire) would in that case be smarter indeed

Yhea I gave UK, and just sewed and printed some mounts