Post Shave: Stirling Soap Co. - Varen - Aftershave
Post Shave: Goodfellow & Co. - Face Lotion - Kelp & Sea Mineral
First straight razor shave in the books. About 2 years ago I tried one shave with a $.50 half-DE shavette – this was better.
Weepers, sure… but I didn’t have to get out the styptic pencil, and not as many as I thought I’d get.
My deficiencies as a sharpener/honer were on full display, but the razor did cut hair, and as the shave went on my technique improved, and things got easier. I’m going to watch @[email protected]’s video on how to sharpen a straight razor again, now that I have stuff to play with (I think he has a dedicated how-to video, but don’t take my word for it). I only have an Atoma 600 and a Naniwa 10k at this point, so I’m sure I would benefit from something like a 6000 or 8000.
So the good news is I’m not totally turned off from straight razor shaving, and I might actually enjoy the challenge! Woohoo!
Congrats on stepping down the straight razor rabbit hole! This is a practice, but you will make it pretty far up the learning curve in the first 30 shaves, and very comfortable after 100 shaves.
I started with a Gold Dollar many years ago. I managed to drop it and break it during the ‘22 Lather Games. Best thing I ever did. The steel is awful and the razors are clumsy.
I’m going to send you my $12 Union razor. This razor is well sorted, has a very comfortable synthetic edge, and will require very little maintenance if you make and use a loaded denim strop.
Yup, I already watched the fundamentals video today and it reinforced some things and answered some other things (mainly about burr removal). I’ll check out the other video, too.
Maybe the loaded strop video will answer this question, but do people typically put any treatment on their leather stops, or just use them as is?
Thanks for the Union! I haven’t heard of that brand, but I see on Amazon they are still only $13 or $14.
The Union razors available now are made in China and are not of better quality than the Gold Dollar. The one I have is early 20th century and made in Atlanta (or at least marketed from there). It is far better than a $12 razor. I think the person who sold it to me (as part of a 2-razor auction) did not know what it was.
Ohhh, big difference. I used to live in northwest Atlanta. Union City is southwest, not too far.
I looked online and people postulate they were made in Union City, with the blanks possibly coming from a machine factory in the city. I got married at one of the machine factories (an event venue, now) called King Plow, but I didn’t see any reference to that place in regards to razors.
Normally, people strop on plain leather, or on plain fabric. Stropping realigns the microscopic teeth at the apex. A loaded strop has abrasive and is removing material at the edge. This really isn’t necessary to do after every shave.
Many people prefer to strop just before shaving. I prefer to strop after shaving because it helps ensure that the edge is free of moisture. I strop on linen, or flax, then strop on leather. I normally do 20 laps on the fabric, and 40 laps on the leather. If you are looking for a good “first” strop, Duke City, on eBay has a great product. For high quality at a fair price my friend Tony Miller (Heirloom Strops) is the guy.
April 14, 2025
First straight razor shave in the books. About 2 years ago I tried one shave with a $.50 half-DE shavette – this was better.
Weepers, sure… but I didn’t have to get out the styptic pencil, and not as many as I thought I’d get.
My deficiencies as a sharpener/honer were on full display, but the razor did cut hair, and as the shave went on my technique improved, and things got easier. I’m going to watch @[email protected]’s video on how to sharpen a straight razor again, now that I have stuff to play with (I think he has a dedicated how-to video, but don’t take my word for it). I only have an Atoma 600 and a Naniwa 10k at this point, so I’m sure I would benefit from something like a 6000 or 8000.
So the good news is I’m not totally turned off from straight razor shaving, and I might actually enjoy the challenge! Woohoo!
I have a “fundamentals” video that is way too long, and there’s this “Sharpening Kit” video (also too long).
Congrats on stepping down the straight razor rabbit hole! This is a practice, but you will make it pretty far up the learning curve in the first 30 shaves, and very comfortable after 100 shaves.
I started with a Gold Dollar many years ago. I managed to drop it and break it during the ‘22 Lather Games. Best thing I ever did. The steel is awful and the razors are clumsy.
I’m going to send you my $12 Union razor. This razor is well sorted, has a very comfortable synthetic edge, and will require very little maintenance if you make and use a loaded denim strop.
Yup, I already watched the fundamentals video today and it reinforced some things and answered some other things (mainly about burr removal). I’ll check out the other video, too.
Maybe the loaded strop video will answer this question, but do people typically put any treatment on their leather stops, or just use them as is?
Thanks for the Union! I haven’t heard of that brand, but I see on Amazon they are still only $13 or $14.
The Union razors available now are made in China and are not of better quality than the Gold Dollar. The one I have is early 20th century and made in Atlanta (or at least marketed from there). It is far better than a $12 razor. I think the person who sold it to me (as part of a 2-razor auction) did not know what it was.
Ohhh, big difference. I used to live in northwest Atlanta. Union City is southwest, not too far.
I looked online and people postulate they were made in Union City, with the blanks possibly coming from a machine factory in the city. I got married at one of the machine factories (an event venue, now) called King Plow, but I didn’t see any reference to that place in regards to razors.
It’s a well made razor with good steel and good balance. Helluva razor for $12 😁
My latest honing video is a tutorial. It was done for the razor’s owner, but there might be something of interest for you.
Normally, people strop on plain leather, or on plain fabric. Stropping realigns the microscopic teeth at the apex. A loaded strop has abrasive and is removing material at the edge. This really isn’t necessary to do after every shave.
Many people prefer to strop just before shaving. I prefer to strop after shaving because it helps ensure that the edge is free of moisture. I strop on linen, or flax, then strop on leather. I normally do 20 laps on the fabric, and 40 laps on the leather. If you are looking for a good “first” strop, Duke City, on eBay has a great product. For high quality at a fair price my friend Tony Miller (Heirloom Strops) is the guy.
I have a Duke City strop 👍
Excellent! I bought one a while back just to see what they are like. Really liked it. Gave it to VisceralWatch to help get him started.